Archive for July, 2010
100 Is Not Enough
July 31st, 2010
Posted in
Transformations
July 30th, 2010
The process of cooking is about controlling and shaping. We start with ideas and apply them to ingredients which then must be tasted and tested. Without impeccable ingredients ideas are only as good as paper they are scrawled upon. Our role is to control and guide the transformation of these ideas to the ingredients.
White and Black Sesame
July 30th, 2010
We tried to make sesame paste out of sesame seeds, but there was always a bitter finish that bothered me. So we sourced sesame paste, black and white, directly from Japan. We use in recipes from time to time. The latest recipe is the combination of both in a macaroon. The shell use white sesame flour and white sesame paste with, of course, the basic ingredients (almond flour, egg white and icing sugar), while the filling is a bitter sweet ganache with the addition of black sesame paste and Murray salt. Nathan spent some time making both recipes work and the result is a very intense sesame flavor enhanced by the salt. I almost forgot to mention that he sprinkles a dust of black sesame flour on the shell . That was the ultimate touch that we always like.
Powdered Lemongrass
July 29th, 2010
The powdering of lemongrass in our liquid nitrogen class was revelatory. The aromatics were incredible and it sparked a free flowing conversation and the ensuing applications of powdered aromatics as tissanes for savory, sweet and cocktail applications. The powdered lemongrass or other ingredient is put into a strainer and then the product to be enhanced or accented is poured through the strainer. The results are intense, immediate and delicious. This certainly changes our game plan in a number of applications.
Powdered Lemongrass
July 29th, 2010
The powdering of lemongrass in our liquid nitrogen class was revelatory. The aromatics were incredible and it sparked a free flowing conversation and the ensuing applications of powdered aromatics as tissanes for savory, sweet and cocktail applications. The powdered lemongrass or other ingredient is put into a strainer and then the product to be enhanced or accented is poured through the strainer. The results are intense, immediate and delicious. This certainly changes our game plan in a number of applications.
A Different Angle
July 29th, 2010
In the past I have had trouble cooking a larger portion of short ribs into the pressure cooker without ending up with an excessive amount of braising liquid. Some might wonder what exactly is an excessive amount of braising liquid? When there is too much liquid in the pressure cooker before we begin, we end up diluting both the broth and the flavor of the meat being cooked. Sure, we can reduce the broth afterwards, but that is a waste of time, energy and flavor. Reducing liquids both concentrate flavor and changes it; and not always for the better.
Aki took the reigns on our short rib issue because she was tired of me "messing them up" again and again. Instead of packing the meat into the pot, she stood the ribs upright and then filled in the voids with aromatics. Finally she poured a blend of red wine and soy sauce about a quarter of the way up the ribs. I kept telling her that there was no way we were going to have enough liquid to properly cook the ribs but she tuned me out. (She's good at that.) When the meat was finished cooking (45 minutes at high pressure)and the pressure had dissipated naturally, the tender ribs were resting in there well seasoned liquid with a fine layer of fat on top. Aki just smiled as I happily acknowledged her success. Sometimes you just have to take a leap of faith, or in this case, have someone else do it for you.
Combinations
July 29th, 2010
It is wonderful to be in Cambridge. It has been too long since we were up here and it is a brand new experience seeing Tony's new digs. We arrived yesterday and were happily thrown into brunch service. It was hard work but we happily warmed some seats and devoured delicious food.
After brunch, we set up shop and started preparing for our classes and the dinner on Thursday. Pop on in if you are in the neighborhood.
Avocado and Tomato
July 29th, 2010
The prominent ingredients of this dish are the sliced tomatoes and avocados. However, it is the addition of the smoked capers which truly elevates and points up the flavors. There salty, briny smokiness paired with all the other components is simple and unforced deliciousness. It is not easy to refrain from the addition of more and thankfully we did.
Carbonated Young Coconut Water
July 29th, 2010
We were working with young coconuts at the same time we were playing with carbonated cocktails. One thing led to another and the result was carbonated coconut water, fresh from the shell. The effervescence really carries the aroma of the coconut, like sea breeze on a tropical island. While this is just a glass of carbonated coconut water the pathway is now clearly defined and we are excited about creating and consuming our upcoming discoveries.
A Different Angle
July 27th, 2010
In the past I have had trouble cooking a larger portion of short ribs into the pressure cooker without ending up with an excessive amount of braising liquid. Some might wonder what exactly is an excessive amount of braising liquid? When there is too much liquid in the pressure cooker before we begin, we end up diluting both the broth and the flavor of the meat being cooked. Sure, we can reduce the broth afterwards, but that is a waste of time, energy and flavor. Reducing liquids both concentrate flavor and changes it; and not always for the better.
Aki took the reigns on our short rib issue because she was tired of me “messing them up” again and again. Instead of packing the meat into the pot, she stood the ribs upright and then filled in the voids with aromatics. Finally she poured a blend of red wine and soy sauce about a quarter of the way up the ribs. I kept telling her that there was no way we were going to have enough liquid to properly cook the ribs but she tuned me out. (She’s good at that.) When the meat was finished cooking (45 minutes at high pressure)and the pressure had dissipated naturally, the tender ribs were resting in there well seasoned liquid with a fine layer of fat on top. Aki just smiled as I happily acknowledged her success. Sometimes you just have to take a leap of faith, or in this case, have someone else do it for you.